I ka hopena o ka makahiki 1980, ua kākau kahi haku wainaʻo Rosemary George i kahi puke maikaʻi i kapaʻiaʻo Chianti a me nā waina o Tuscany, a ke mahalo nui nei wau i ka mea makemake i nā inu waina Italia. I ka wā i heluhelu mua ai au, ua hoʻokūʻia wau e kekahi meaʻoiaʻiʻo: I ka manawa e hoʻopā aiʻo ia i kahi kaʻaoʻoʻoleʻa, e like me keʻano o ka mea i kapaʻia he "hua waina" (extra-Tuscan hua waina e like me Cabernet, Merlot, a me nā mea'ē aʻe paha) e hāʻawi iā Chianti ʻo ia kahiʻoi aku o nā mea'ē aʻe,ʻo ia hoʻi ke oli pinepine nei iā Paolo de Marchi o ka māla wainaʻo Isole e Olena o Tuscany.
I ko mākou hanaʻimi noiʻi no ka hana ma ka moku Chianti Classico, ua hālāwai au me ia a maopopo i ke kumu. ʻO Paolo a me kāna wahineʻo Marta,ʻelua mau kānaka lokomaikaʻi loa aʻu iʻike ai; nui loa a wehe a makemake loa e lawe i ka manawa e kōkua ai i nā kānaka. Hoʻoholoʻiaʻo ia kekahi o nā meaʻoihana waina nui heʻumi ma ka honua. Ua noʻonoʻo maikaʻiʻia kona mau manaʻo a he nui konaʻano. Aʻo ia, uaʻano iki lākou ma hope o kona kamaʻilioʻana me Rosemary no kāna puke.
I kēlā manawa, ua hoʻohihoihoiʻiaʻo Paolo e ka manaʻo e hoʻohana i nā hua waina hou-Tuscan e hoʻonui i ka poli a me ke kukui iā Chianti Classico. ʻOiai ka'āina ma waena o Florence a me Siena i hua mau i nā waina maikaʻi, i ka manawa i hakuʻia aiʻo Baron Bettino Ricasoli i keʻano o Chianti Classico i ka makahiki 1850,ʻo Sangiovese ka inoa nui,ʻo ia ka hua waina nui a Tuscany, a me Canaiolo Toscano (kekahi hua waina hou) .
ʻOiai ua maikaʻi nā waina a lanakila i nā mekala, ua makemake lākou i kaʻelemakule, a ua hoʻomākaukau pūʻo ia i ka waina i hoʻomākaukau nuiʻia e komo pū me Malvasia del Chianti, he māla waina.
Akā,ʻo ka Komisina nāna i kūkulu i ka DOC no ka māhele o Chianti Classico i kāohiʻia i kēia kumuhana hope a hoʻokomo i ka mea hana i nā mea keʻokeʻo i loko o kā lākou mau waina; ʻo ka nui o ka waina i huaʻia e like me nā rula, uaʻilihune ka manaʻo o Chianti, a ua hoʻomaka nā meaʻoi aku e ho'āʻo i nā hui o Sangiovese a me Cabernet a me nāʻano waina'ē aʻe - e like me keʻano, ua hoʻomakaʻo Antinori i Tignanello, he mea kupaianaha Sangiovese- ʻO ka hui o Cabernet i kapaʻiaʻo Vino da Tavola (ka papa waina, keʻano haʻahaʻa) no ka mea,ʻaʻole ia e kūpono no ke kūlana DOC.
Ma hope, ua hoʻokolohua nā mea a pau me nā wainaʻokoʻa ma kēia laina, a he nui nā mea i hoʻonui i ka hapa iki o Cabernet a me Merlot i ko lākou Chianti Classico no ka hāʻawiʻana iā ia i kahi hou o ka honua. Ua kanuʻo Paolo i ka māla wainaʻo Cabernet, "ʻoiai he maikaʻi ka'āina no nā hua wainaʻo Cabernet, aʻo kekahi hapa no ka hanaʻana o nā mea'ē aʻe." Ua manaʻo muaʻo ia e hoʻohana i ka Cabernet e hoʻomaikaʻi i ke kino a me ke kala o kāna Chianti Classico, akā, ua hoʻoholoʻo ia e lanakilaʻo Cabernet i ka Sangiovese (he helu kahi; he nui nā hīmeni o nā Chiantis i loaʻa iā Cabernet i loko o lākou. o ka mana i loko o kā lākou mau kīpuka).
Ua hoʻoholoʻo ia i ka hua waina maikaʻi loa e mahalo iā Sangioveseʻo Syrah,ʻo ka hua waina vine Farani mai Rhone Valley, a kanu i kekahi mauʻeka o ia wahi. Eia naʻe, i ka manawa i ulu ai ka māla waina, ua manaʻoʻo ia i ka manaʻo holoʻokoʻa o ka hoʻohanaʻana i nā hua waina kōkua: "Pono lākou e hoʻomanaʻo houʻia," i'ōlelo aiʻo ia. "ʻO ka ikaika o Tuscany, e like me kahi o ka waina waina e mahi nei, aia i kaʻano o nā waina, nāʻano kūlohelohe e hoʻohālikelike ai i nā waina." ʻO kēia mauʻano i loaʻa mua mai ka hua waina Sangiovese, a ua hiki mai neiʻo ia i ka hopena e hana ponoʻo Tuscans me ko lākou Sloniovese (ʻo kahi huelo he mauʻano waina), koho wale i nā hua o ka hua waina maikaʻi e hiki ai ke hana i nā waina maikaʻi. .
I kona manaʻo,ʻo ke kī o ka hanaʻana i ka waina maikaʻi ka hana ma ka māla waina; ʻO ka mea i loko o ka winery ma hope o ka hōʻiliʻiliʻai kula. ʻO ka hua waina e helu ana.
Manaʻoʻo Paolo i keʻano nui o keʻano o nā wainaʻaʻole he mea hoʻonāukiuki; ua heleʻo ia i ka 26 (ma ka helu hope) ua hanaʻo nā'āina ma Kaleponika, a ua kipa pinepineʻo ia i'Atarakia, a ua ho'āʻoʻo ia i nā waina mai kēlā me kēia ao.
He waiwai nui ko'Ataliane,ʻo Chile he mau haʻawina hana haʻahaʻa loa, e like meʻAmelika Hema, a me ka Europa Hema kahi meaʻikeʻoleʻia e hiki ke lilo i mea hoʻokipa moe. Ke kuhikuhi neiʻo ia, kokoke i ka mea hiki i kekahi ke hoʻopuka i kahi waina "ka honua" me kahi mea nui o Cabernet a me nā hua waina'ē aʻe, a hana i kahi hana maikaʻi loa; hiki i nā mea hana Tuscan e ukali i kēia ala ma kahi ho'āʻo e hoʻopiʻi kū'ē i ka meaʻai o ka honua ke loaʻa iā lākou i ukuʻia mai ka mākeke no ka mea,ʻoi aku ka kiʻekiʻe o kā lākou uku ma mua o nā mea i hiki ke hoʻohana i kaʻoihana limahana a iʻole ka mechanical.
Inā, ma kahi, ua hana lākou e hana i nā waina waina maikaʻi loa o Tuscan , e hana lākou i kahi mea kūikawā loa, a he mea eʻimi mauʻia e nā meaʻike.
E noʻonoʻo pahaʻoe, i kēia manawa, i ka mea a Paolo i hana ai i nā hua waina mai kona mau Cabernet a me ka māla o Syra. Hana i nā waina, a kapaʻiaʻo Collezione De Marchi. ʻO Cabernet Collezione De Marchi, ua lanakilaʻo Gambero Rosso i nā kīʻaha 3 i makemake nuiʻia a me ka Parker i nā makahiki he 90,ʻo Ere Ere, a Syrah. Hāʻawiʻia ka hā i loko o nā makapō i nā makahiki i hala aku nei, ma hope oʻekolu mau waina nui Rhone Valley aʻo Chardonnay. ʻO Collezione De Marchi, kahi Chardonnay kūpaʻa a Paroneʻaʻole i lawa pono, "ināʻoi aku ka maikaʻi o nā makahiki a pau."
ʻO ka lakaʻo'Isole e Olena, ma kekahiʻaoʻao, ua mālamaʻia no nā waina kahiko Tuscan e manaʻoʻia mai kahi waiwai ma ka'āina Chianti Classico. Loaʻaʻo Chianti Classico, i hanaʻia mai kahi 80% Sangiovese, Canaiolo, a (inā makemakeʻia ka makahiki) a hiki i 5% Syrah. Aiaʻo Cepparello, "ʻo ka mea a Isole e Olena e pili ana,"ʻo ka wainaʻaina waina maikaʻi loa 100% o Paolo's Chianti Classico Riserva i hāʻawiʻia ka commission DOC i ka Chianti Classico mai Sangiovese wale nō. I kēia manawa e hanaʻiaʻo Chianti Classico mai Sangiovese wale nō, eʻike kākou i ka mea a Paolo e hoʻoholo ai. ʻO ka hopena, aiaʻo Vinsanto, ka waina kahiko a Tuscany o ka hoʻokipa a me ka lokomaikaʻi, i hanaʻia mai ke keʻokeʻo (Malvasia a me Trebbiano) i lāhi muaʻia i ka hōʻiliʻiliʻana, i hoʻokuʻuʻia i mau hua waina, i paʻiʻia i Ianuali, no 4 mau makahiki ma mua o ka laweʻana. ʻO nā hua o Paolo, he mea liʻiliʻi ia, aʻo kona Vinsanto ka mea iʻikeʻia kekahi o nā waina momona o Italian.
Loaʻa nā malihini kipa ma'Isole i Olena, akāʻaʻoleʻoe e manaʻo e hiki i nā kānaka ke ho'ōki i kā lākou hana i ka wā e hiki mai ai koe keʻoleʻoe e hele mua e koho; I ka manawa mua aʻu i hele ai,ʻike wau i kekahi mau keikikāne e hoʻonohonoho ana i kahi hua kiʻi kiʻi me kahi arc-welder i loko o ke kahua ("ʻo nā pōhaku e paʻa i ka pana i waho o ka mīkini"), a hoʻopauʻia i ka māla hou (i nā mea a pau, ka waiwai heʻoi aku ka nui ma mua o 100 mau māla waina) me Piero Masi, ke kahu waiwai, eʻike i nā mea e hiki mai ana.
No ka hōʻeaʻana aku i'Isole i Olena, e lawe i ke alaloa mai Florence a Siena, a puka i San Donato; e hele ma mua o San Donato, e huli i Castellina, ae huli'ākau i kou hikiʻana i ka hōʻailona no'Isole. ʻO ke alanui, i kuhiʻia i kēia manawa,ʻo ia kekahi o nā kumu i hanaʻole aiʻo Paolo i ka Agritourism: "Ua hoʻolimalima au i kahi lumi hoʻokahi no hoʻokahi pule, hoʻokahi wale nō," i haʻi maiʻo ia iaʻu. "He kanakaʻo Bentley ka mea i hele i ka hale, a heleʻo ia no Florence i ke kakahiaka aʻe." ʻO ke kumu'ē aʻe? "E hoʻoemi ka manawa mai koʻu mau waina."
[Hoʻoponoponoʻia e Danette St. Onge]